MiltonSearch.com Home and Garden

Microwaves, refrigerators, ranges, oh my! Before making a big-ticket purchase, learn your options

5 Things to Look for in a Washing Machine
Top-loaders ($350 and up) are easy to use, since they don’t require bending over. Front-loaders ($600 and up) use 65 percent less energy and a third less water because their basins don’t completely fill with water. Note, however, that new, pricier top-loaders ($900 and up) rival the energy-efficiency of front-loaders.

Look For:
A machine that heats only the water it needs. “This is the most important thing that people overlook when buying washers,” says John O’Meara, manager of Standards of Excellence, an appliance showroom in San Rafael, California. The feature, which is becoming more common, saves energy by heating only the water you need rather than the entire household water tank. In general, “washers made now are one-third more efficient than those made seven years ago,” says Jill Notini, a spokeswoman for the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, in Washington, D.C.

A speedy spin cycle. The faster the cycle, the more water will be extracted, and the less time clothes will spend in the dryer. Look for “a high rpm (rotations per minute), which adds up to energy-efficiency,” says Alex Cheimets, editor of www.applianceadvisor.com. Go for at least 900 rpm. To save even more energy, pair the washer with a dryer that has a moisture sensor, which shuts off the unit when the clothes are dry.

Minimal water usage. Most conventional washers go through 40 gallons of water per cycle, so “if you do a load a day,” says Audrey Reed-Granger, a spokesperson for Whirlpool, “that’s more than 14,000 gallons a year.” Check the labels; some machines consume as little as 14 gallons a cycle.

Pedestals. Some washers (and dryers) can be equipped with pedestals ($100 to $200), which sit underneath the appliance and raise it up a foot or more for easier loading and unloading. Many include built-in drawers for stashing detergent, bleach, and stain-removal sticks.

An additional rinse cycle. This option, which dispenses extra water during washing, is great if you need to fight a stubborn stain or want to remove excess detergent that can irritate allergy sufferers or babies. However, it will increase your water bill.

Tip: If you put a 1,000-rpm (rotations per minute) model on the second floor without shock absorbers, “when it hits the spin cycle, the floor will shake,” says Whirlpool’s Audrey Reed-Granger. But don’t worry about a basement or the ground floor; they’re often reinforced.

5 Things to Look for in a Refrigerator
Top freezers ($400 to $1,200) are the most space- and energy-efficient of all the models; bottom freezers ($700 to $1,500) locate the refrigerator section at eye level and offer deep freezer storage. Side-by-sides ($800 to $2,000) have two full-height doors — a freezer on one side, a refrigerator on the other.

Look For:
A just-right size. Refrigerators are measured in cubic feet, but that number can be misleading, because it also includes space taken up by the freezer, the shelves, and the bins. For two to four people, an 18-cubic-foot refrigerator (with about five of those cubic feet devoted to the freezer) should suffice. Keep in mind that an ice maker will use about one cubic foot of the freezer cavity; some newer models locate the ice maker on the freezer door to save room.

Space-expanding features. Motorized shelves can be raised and lowered at the push of a button to accommodate the height of the items you’re storing. Elevator shelves, which adjust with the crank of a lever, are just as effective. Also look for movable door bins, as well as pullout shelves, which offer access to goods stashed in the back. Some units have caddies that hold soda cans and racks for storing wine bottles horizontally.

Easy-care materials. Stainless steel is sleek, but it shows streaks and fingerprints; faux stainless doesn’t. As for the interior, glass shelves are easier to wipe down than metal grills and have lips that contain spills, says Chris Hall, cofounder and president of the appliance-maintenance website www.repairclinic.com.

Energy efficiency. Bottom freezers use 16 percent less energy than side-by-sides; top freezers consume 13 percent less. You’ll use 14 to 20 percent more energy if you opt for a through-the-door water dispenser. The most efficient refrigerators bear the Energy Star label, which ensures that they use 15 percent less energy than federal efficiency standards require.

Water filters. Some appliances contain a water dispenser with a filter for the ice maker — ideal for minimizing lead and chlorine in ice and drinking water — in a through-the-door configuration or inside the refrigerator.

Tip: Some refrigerator doors open on the left, others on the right. Consider this when shopping around. If the layout of your kitchen changes after you purchase the appliance, see if you can have the doors rehinged.

5 Things to Look for in a Dishwasher
Although there aren’t different categories to consider, models vary in terms of capacity and special features. While some entry-level units start at $200, those with bonuses, such as hidden controls, can cost upwards of $2,000.

Look For:
The number of place settings it holds. Dishwashers with standard-size tubs fit 12 five-piece place settings. If you entertain frequently, consider ones with tall tubs, which store 14 place settings and can easily handle large stockpots, vases, and cookie trays. Ideal for tight areas, compact 18-inch models hold six to eight settings. Don’t feel guilty loading up these workhorses; they actually use less water than you would doing the dishes by hand. Isn’t technology great?

A delay-start option. This allows you to set the machine to turn on at a later time, like when you’re tucked snugly into bed. (Plus, in some areas, utility rates are lower at night.) If you’re concerned about noise, opt for an insulated machine or one that touts whisper-quiet capabilities.

A forced-air mode. Without forced air, which involves a fan circulating dry air downward throughout the drying period, “anything with a concave top — like plastic cups, bowls, and upturned wineglasses — will collect water,” says Chris Hall of www.repairclinic.com. “It’s a pain.”

Space-saving details. Some have tines that fold down to accommodate large platters; others have adjustable top racks or ones that can be removed.

Multiple cycles. Choose a sanitizing cycle for baby bottles or a gentle cycle labeled specifically for glassware. Some new units have a steam cycle to get baked-on grime off dishes while using less water. If you would like to run small loads or quick loads of glasses during a party, “look for dishwashers with short cycles,” says Whirlpool’s Audrey Reed-Granger. These can be as fast as 25 minutes, compared with more than two hours for normal cycles.

Tip: Most new dishwashers are so powerful that there’s no need to prerinse dishes. So you save time — and water.

5 Things to Look for in Ranges
You can control the flame with precision on gas models; electric versions heat food and boil water faster. For both, prices start at $500 and can cost as much as $10,000. Dual-fuel ranges ($1,400 to $10,000 or more) pair gas cooktops with electric ovens.

Look For:
Convection capabilities. This option, which uses a fan in the back of the unit to circulate heated air, cooks more evenly and about 25 percent faster. Convection ranges cost about $200 to $300 more than standard ones.

An easy-to-clean cooktop. Electric units have coil tops (for the easiest cleanup, look for ones with porcelain rather than ceramic or enameled-metal drip pans) or smooth surfaces that wipe down in a flash. The grates on gas models need to be removed before you start scouring. Some have continuous grates, which are sturdy and allow pots to be slid from burner to burner without lifting; the downside is that they’re heavy. Look for seamless edges and corners.

Warming drawers. Typically located beneath the oven cavity, warming drawers keep food warm before it hits the table. They can also serve as extra storage space when not in use.

Steam technology. Thanks to this feature, which can be used manually or automatically, you can infuse anything, from roasts to baked goods, with moisture.

Commercial-style units. If you’re an avid cook, check out these professional-looking ranges. They boast up to eight burners and can span 60 inches, so they’re ideal for preparing multiple dishes at the same time. Some have grills, griddles, and built-in woks. Note that you will pay top dollar for them.

Tip: Induction cooking is faster and more energy-efficient than gas or electric — but it’s twice as pricey. When a pot is placed on a burner, an electromagnetic charge generates heat; the burner shuts off when the vessel is removed.

5 Things to Look for in a Microwave Oven
Countertop versions ($30 to $250) can be placed anywhere; over-the-range models ($100 to $700) save space and often have lights and exhaust fans on the bottom, so they double as vent hoods.

Look For:
Power! A microwave’s power is measured by its wattage; the higher the wattage, the quicker food will cook. If you use your microwave mostly for reheating, a 600-watt unit should do the trick. But if you use it to prepare full meals, especially for a large family, opt for 900 to 1,300 watts.

A convection mode. If you entertain a lot and would benefit from a second oven, or if you want superfast cooking results, consider machines with convection technology, which uses a heating element and a fan to circulate air for roasting, baking, browning, and grilling in half the time needed by a regular oven.

Turntable size and function. Microwaves with 16-inch-diameter turntables are large enough for most cooks, says Jill Notini of the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. Look for turntables that rotate automatically for even cooking results and that can be removed for easy cleaning.

Sensors. If you tend to overcook or undercook meals, seek out units with sensors that shut off the microwave when food is done by calculating how much steam is being emitted from the food.

Childproof doors. Some microwaves have door locks (which can be activated and deactivated via the keypad) so curious hands don’t get burned on hot dishes.

Tip: Because they work so quickly, microwaves use two-thirds the energy of standard ovens. And they release minimal heat into the kitchen, so you may save on air-conditioning bills, too.

Disaster DIY: The six deadly sins of do-it-yourself projects you should avoid

Time
DIY’ers think they can renovate a bathroom or kitchen, build a deck or finish a basement in a weekend or in the evenings after work. They can’t. People often underestimate how long it takes to do a job properly. It takes even longer to learn how to do things right - I don’t know many people who learned to walk in a weekend!

Money
Buying the proper materials costs money. Hiring a professional costs money. There are so many variables in a renovation that it’s almost impossible to foresee all the costs. People don’t understand that for every dollar that’s saved, if it’s done wrong, it will end up costing more than double to fix it properly.

Skill
It takes lots of practice, trial and error to set straight and level tiles, create seamless joints in drywall or install trim or crown molding. But people buy a book, watch a show, put on a toolbelt - and abracadabra - they’re experts. Except they’re not.

Planning
Proper planning will result in a smooth(er) renovation. A lot of weekend warriors are the “shoot first” type. There’s only one way to plan a project: design, destroy, rebuild - in that order.

Mess
Renovation is a war - on dirt. A lot of people expect thousands of pounds of lathe and plaster to come down without creating a mess. Clean up regularly – it’s easier to see what you’re doing and it’s safer. When it comes to laying drop sheets, try taping up plastic sheets to keep dust down - an ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold.

Enjoyment
When starting a DIY project, many people have expectations that far exceed the reality of the project. When the honeymoon’s over and the DIYer realizes that the project will take more time, more money and more skill to get the job done properly – that’s when the problems begin. The job is either left unfinished or finished incorrectly because it was rushed. Doing your own home renovation project is like getting married – you’ve got to know what you’re getting into. There will be good days and there will be bad days. It’s important that once you tear down that wall, you stay committed and do the very best you can.

Hiring a contractor is one of the most difficult and nerve-wracking things a homeowner ever has to do. Seeking out the right person to do a great job for a fair price can feel like an endless search as you wade through over-priced quotes. Trust your instincts, and keep this list of troubling phrases in mind when you’re looking for your next contractor.

Phrases that mean trouble
“We happened to be in your neighbourhood.” Be wary of anyone who comes knocking at your door looking for work. Driveway paving and roofing companies may solicit business this way, but make sure you check the company out thoroughly before agreeing to have any work done. Never hire anyone who says the offer is only good if you sign up right now, or who can’t provide references. Homeowners and reputable contractors agree: the best way to hire someone is by word of mouth.

“We require payment in full before we start work.” Any pressure tactics to make the full payment or a larger than normal deposit before work begins should set off alarms, even if the contractor claims they need the money to buy materials. A reputable contractor won’t need to pay for materials in advance because he’ll have an account with his regular suppliers. The Canadian Home Builders’ Association (CHBA) recommends a prepayment of 10 to 15 percent of the total price.

“We can offer a special deal if you pay cash and we skip the paperwork.” While it can be tempting to save money on your renovation by paying cash, always get an agreement in writing. The contract protects you from certain liabilities, and proves what you and the contractor have agreed to in terms of the scope of the work, the work schedule, warranty, and the price and payment schedule. You should also steer clear of any contractor who can’t justify why his quote is much higher or much lower than the others. A very low price may leave you liable for accidents, injuries or damages caused on the job.

“Custom made, custom size.” While sometimes you will do a custom job — to create the kitchen of your dreams or a built-in cabinet in an oddly shaped nook—the word “custom” usually means dollar signs.

Sins of omission
Lies about business record and insurance. Before you meet them, check your potential contractors out with the Better Business Bureau and your local Home Builders’ Association to see if anyone has lodged a complaint against them. If they aren’t registered with at least one of these, cancel the meeting. During the meeting, be sure to ask about their record, as well as proof of Worker’s Compensation coverage and Contractor Liability insurance.

Not asking any questions at all. A good contractor should listen to what you want, but also tell you what you need and ask about things you may not have considered. He should bring to the table expertise about how best to do the job, where you might be able to cost-share, and what you need in terms of permits or permission from the neighbours.

Not mentioning the cooling off period. Even after the contract has been signed and the deposit paid, there is a “cooling off” period (normally 10 days) during which you can cancel the contract and get your deposit back. A professional contractor should mention your right to cancel.

Actions speak louder than words. Your prospective contractor may be a fly-by-night operation if the quote he gives you is printed on plain paper instead of letterhead, if it doesn’t have an itemized breakdown of all costs involved in the project, or if he hasn’t bothered to spend the nominal fee to put the company name on his truck.

When looking for a contractor, keep your radar on and your ears open for anything that just doesn’t sound right. Be a smart, informed consumer and never let your lack of knowledge of the industry deter you from investigating further or asking questions. A contractor might suggest you cut corners or try a temporary solution, but in the end, you’ll be the one left footing the bill to get the job (finally) done right.

A neutral coat of paint throughout your house can give you the most bang for your buck

Can’t stand your scary, cobwebby basement one more minute? Is it past time to replace the pink-and-aqua tiles and porcelain in the master bath? Maybe you’re sick of the curling, chipped vinyl floor, the tacky cabinets, and cramped layout of your kitchen. Perhaps you’re trying to convince your partner that the siding is sad and stucco would be stupendous. But your partner wants to build a deck…

What are the best home improvement projects to undertake? It depends on your goals and plans. If you’re trying to sell your property soon for the highest possible price, your priorities are likely somewhat different than if you’re planning to stay for a few years and want to improve your family’s quality of life.

If you’re selling, focus on the renovations a buyer would be most likely to undertake, not those you’re most itching to do. You might dream of putting French doors and a Juliet balcony in the master bedroom, but if your kitchen is twenty-five years old—or even fifteen—you’re better off directing your home improvement dollars there. Buyers generally focus on kitchen and bathroom quality, along with overall living and storage space. Kitchen and bathroom remodelling projects are among the most disruptive undertakings, so buyers especially appreciate upgraded fixtures, appliances and décor in these rooms.

Here are ten worthwhile home improvement projects and the percentage of cost typically recouped at resale (in a seller’s market):

1. Painting
If you’re only going to do one thing, paint. Interior/exterior painting is one of the very few improvements on which you are likely to realize a profit—as long as you choose tasteful, current, neutral colours and the work is very professional. Payback: As much as 300%

2. Kitchen remodelling
Typically one of the most expensive improvement projects, and you can quickly run up a huge bill. Careful planning and shopping will help minimize costs here. When remodelling the kitchen, remember to keep the project in line with the style and quality of the rest of the house and neighbourhood. Just as there’s no point in putting a pricey granite countertop on dated-looking 1970s cabinets, there’s no point in installing a $50,000 kitchen in a $200,000 house. Payback: 68-120%.

3. Bathroom addition
If your home has only one bathroom and is meant to house more than two people, a bathroom addition should be one of your top priorities. If most homes in your neighbourhood have two, three or more bathrooms, and yours has just one or one-and-a-half, you will definitely increase your property value by adding a bath. Payback: 80-130%.

4. Bathroom remodelling
Upgrading a pokey bathroom will enhance the value of your home and add to your daily comfort and enjoyment. White porcelain is the safe, timeless choice here. Payback: 65-120%.

5. Finishing unfinished space
Whether it’s an attic or a basement, by finishing these spaces you add significant value to your home, increasing square footage without having to build. Payback: 50-90%.

6. Window/door replacement
If your windows or doors are wasting energy or simply decrepit-looking, replacements can be an excellent use of your home improvement dollars. Stick to standard styles; odd shapes and highly customized arrangements do little for resale value. Payback: 50-90%.

7. Deck addition/improvement/expansion
Decks are one of the few exterior improvements with any significant return, apart from painting. Payback: 65-90%.

8. Additions of bedrooms, family rooms, sunrooms, conservatories, garages, etc.
Increasing square footage is almost always an excellent use of remodelling dollars, but don’t expand your home so much that there’s little outdoor space left. Payback: 50-83%.

9. Home office remodelling
This project is becoming increasingly popular. Be sure to plan for plenty of electrical and cable outlets to accommodate all the required machines and gadgets. Payback: 60-73%.

10. Energy efficiency retrofits
If your primary concern is return on investment, proceed with caution. Some retrofits, like better insulation and high-efficiency furnaces, pay for themselves relatively quickly. Others, like solar panels, heat recovery ventilators, and tankless water heaters, may take years to pay for themselves. Payback: Highly variable.

Two projects that are unlikely to pay off at resale: swimming pools (which may even adversely affect your property value) and excessive landscaping (buyers may admire it but few will pay extra tens of thousands even if that’s what you spent to improve the grounds). And remember that badly done remodelling/renovation projects will cost you in two ways. You won’t pay just for labour and materials; you’ll pay when buyers see a project that has to be redone.

From licences and terms to contracts and reference checks, hiring a contractor for your home gets a little easier with these great tips from Mike Holmes

Licences and Insurance
Each contractor who comes onto your property should have a valid licence. Make sure you ask to see it and inspect it closely. Licences are offered by the government and expire yearly, so make sure you check to see if their licence is valid. The government supplies permits for renovation, electrical, plumbing, heating and cooling. The licence doesn’t insure quality but it is the first step in investigating your contractor. It is also your right as a home owner to demand that your contractor carry valid insurance which covers you in case of any accidents on the job site (i.e. someone dropping an expensive vase or scratching an original oil painting). If a contractor doesn’t have valid insurance, they can attain temporary insurance to cover the work on your property. Some contractors may threaten to not do work on your property if you demand insurance but do you want someone like that working on your property?

References
If your contractor is a good one, they will have a list of references detailing at least 10 different clients with up-to-date contact information including: name, address, phone number(s), and info on the work done including quote. Once the contractor has supplied such a list, call a number of them. Ask the home owners important questions like: Did the contractor start/finish on time? How much down did they ask for? Did you have any problems on the job? Was the contractor pleasant to work with? Did they surprise you with extra prices you did not expect? Furthermore, try to go see at least three other properties which have had similar work done. This is important as you don’t want a fence expert doing a stucco job on your $30,000 addition.

Contracts
Before you agree to have the contractor do work on your property, it is the contractor’s responsibility to provide a contract containing all their contact information and detailing the work which will be completed on your property, supplies they will be using, sub contractors (if any) who will be coming onto the property and a detailed payment schedule. It should also be stated in the contract that you will not pay any costs above the quote unless agreed to in writing.

Terms
It isn’t a bad idea to put some terms on your contract, i.e. times the property is open to them and that the contractor agrees to clean up at the end of each work day. Some contractors ask for an outrageous amount of money before they even lay a hand on your property. Our first episode “Whole House Disaster” tells the story of Dave and Anna who were taken for over $100,000 when they hired a contractor to renovate their entire house. The contractor asked for $20,000 upon singing and $20,000 the first day of work. That’s $40,000 (or 40%) up front.

A good landmark to use depending on the size of your job, is an average “good faith” down payment of $2,500 which is basically booking a contractor’s time. When they arrive at the job site with their tools ready to work, you can give them another 10%. Never agree to a payment schedule based on time. Agree to a payment schedule based on work completed. For instance, if someone is renovating a spare room in your home, agree to pay just 10% on their first day or work, 25% when electrical is completed, 25% when insulation, vapor barrier and dry wall is installed, and 25% when priming and painting is completed. It is your right to hold back 15% for up to one month after completion. This gives you time to make sure nothing falls apart within 30 days of the job being completed. Never give the balance of the quote due before the contractor has finished all of their work. Make sure you never pay in cash. Always pay by cheque or certified cheque. It is important to keep a paper trail in case you ever have to go to court. It is always important to get a receipt for every payment you pay the contractor, signed and dated by the contractor.

Caution
Most importantly—BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU SIGN. A good contract should be typed, legible and easy to read. There should be no fine print. And remember—always trust your first instincts as they are usually correct.

Next week, Mike will discuss Contractor Red Flags.

It’s getting into the Fall season and every homeowner knows what this means in the months ahead: heating system check up, caulking, weatherproofing, etc. The following checklist touches on a few of the most obvious areas that should be checked before winter sets in.

Check all window and door locks for proper operation.

Windows that can be opened by breaking the glass and unlocking them, are less effective deterrents to criminals. Check with the hardware store for window lock alternatives. All exterior doors should have deadbolt locks.

Check your home for water leaks.

First of all, know where the main water shut off valve is located in your home and check it frequently to make sure it is operational. Then, check the following areas:

Outside Your Home
Leaking roofs, poor drainage, and clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to significant water damage inside your home.

General Tips
• Disconnect garden hoses from all spigots before the start of winter.
• Fill in any low spots around the house so water drains away from the foundation.
• Inspect caulking around windows and doors and replace as needed where cracked or deteriorated.
• Repaint wood siding as needed.

Roof
• Keep roof, valleys, gutters and downspouts free from buildup of leaves, twigs and other litter preventing proper drainage.
• Proper roof and eave ventilation may help extend the life of the roof by reducing the buildup of heat and moisture in the attic.
• Preservatives available for some types of roofs may help limit weathering effects of moisture and retard growth of molds and mosses.
• Avoid walking on a roof to limit wear and tear. Only necessary repairs or inspections should warrant walking on the roof.
• Keep trees trimmed to prevent them from rubbing against the roof or from providing excessive shade.
• Watch for these warning signs:
• Missing, curling, cupping, broken or cracked shingles.
• Damage or deterioration around the flashing at chimneys, vents and other junctions.
• Damage or deterioration in valley areas of the roof.
• Water stains on your ceiling. If possible, check your attic around flues, plumbing vents, and chimneys.
• Pooling or ponds of water that fail to drain from flat or low sloped roofs may indicate low areas and inadequate drainage.

Gutters/Downspouts
• Clean debris from your gutters and inspect them regularly.
• Consider purchasing gutter shields if your gutters frequently fill with debris.
• Downspouts should extend several feet away from the house to carry water away from the foundation.

Make sure there are working nightlights at the top and bottom of all stairs.
Other safety ideas for stairs:
• Tile and painted wood or concrete stairs can be slippery when wet or when a person’s shoes are wet. Resurface the treads with slip-resistant strips near the stair nosing.
• All stairs of at least three risers should have a handrail.
• Do not store items on the stairs.

Have a heating professional check your heating system every year.
Woodburning stove connector pipes and chimneys should be inspected by a certified chimney sweep at least annually.

Protect your home from frozen pipes.
Many families have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter, all because of water pipes that freeze and burst.
And recovering from frozen pipes is not as simple as calling a plumber. A three millimetre crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons (946 liters) of water a day. Both plastic (PVC) and copper pipes can burst.

By taking a few simple precautions, you can save yourself the mess, money and aggravation frozen pipes cause.

Before the cold hits
• Insulate pipes in your home’s crawl spaces and attic. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember - the more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.
• Heat tape or thermostatically-controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers’ installation and operation instructions.
• Seal leaks that allow cold air inside near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents and pipes. Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With severe cold, even a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
• Disconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.

Replace your furnace filter.
Furnace filters need to be replaced frequently to allow your heating and cooling systems to operate properly.

Run all gas-powered lawn equipment until the fuel tank is empty.
By doing this, you are removing flammable liquid storage from your garage. At the same time, make sure you aren’t storing dirty, oily rags in a pile. They can ignite spontaneously.

Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the flues and check your fireplace damper.
Soot and creosote, which build up inside the chimney, can ignite when a fire is lit in the fireplace.

Remove bird nests from chimney flues and outdoor electrical fixtures.
Bird nests on top of light fixtures are a fire hazard. Bird nests in chimney flues can prevent a proper venting of combustion gases and can catch fire from sparks. You should exercise great caution when working on your roof or consider hiring a qualified professional to take care of any work that needs to be done.

Inspect and clean dust from the covers of your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
Remember, only WORKING smoke alarms save lives.

Make sure the caulking around doors and windows is adequate to reduce heat/cooling loss.
Check glazing for loose or missing putty or glazing compound. This will also help reduce water damage to the windows and door frames.

Make sure that the caulking around your bathroom fixtures is adequate to prevent water from seeping into the sub-flooring.
Check for cracked or missing caulk around the base of your toilet, bath tub, and bathroom cabinets. Properly sealing gaps between your bathroom fixtures and flooring material can prevent damage.

Insulation
A well-insulated house literally can provide hundreds of dollars of energy savings throughout the year by keeping you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
Look:
• In your attic — is it secure, insulation side down, within the studs
• In the walls (if not you may need to have it blown in)
• The unfinished basement or crawl space (you may need to staple it to rafters).
• Attached garage, primarily against any exterior wall or roof
• Underneath a room that does not sit on a concrete foundation

Once you’ve done these few maintenance chores, they should become second-hand next season, and, consequently, easier and easier to finish. Preparing your home for winter in the fall can make life so much easier for you in the cold, dark winter weeks ahead. And you’ll rest easier knowing that you won’t have to fight the elements when the inevitable emergency or problem crops up, as it always does. You can sit back in front of your fireplace with your family and enjoy those cold months secure in your well-protected home!

Mike Holmes suggests making a simple monthly checklist to help keep your house in order.

Mike Holmes, general contractor and host of HGTV’s Holmes on Homes, suggests making a monthly checklist to help keep your house in order.

Here’s his example:

January
Shovel your roof. Don’t let the snow accumulate near the edge of your roof, where it will melt then freeze, causing shingle damage and water penetration.

February
Check your heaters. Plug portable space heaters directly into a fully grounded circuit; extension cords are a fire hazard.

March
Update your fuse box. If you plan on upgrading your old electrical fuse panel with a new breaker panel, make sure you hire a licensed electrician.

April
Unplug your drains. Check that all exterior drains are unplugged. Your basement floor drains may need a backflow preventer, available at your building centre.

May
Make the grade. Make sure the earth around your property slopes away from your home; otherwise you could encounter major water problems in your basement.

June
Build a fence. Use only pressure-treated or cedar wood and galvanized nails for your new fence. Postholes should be a minimum of three feet deep, but remember to call your utilities companies before you dig.

July
Get decked out. Decks are structural and need to be built properly. If your deck is attached to the house you will need a permit. Consider hiring a professional.

August
Do a reno. If you’re hiring reno help this fall, get a minimum of three quotes, request 20 references, call those references and ask 101 questions. Make a small down payment and then pay your contractor in installments as he or she achieves key milestones.

September
Clean the furnace. Have your furnace cleaned and inspected. If you have a fireplace, have your chimneys cleaned. Also, check the batteries in your smoke detectors.

October
Dodge the draft. Replace any cracked caulking around your exterior doors and windows. Don’t caulk over it.

November
Cozy up for winter. Check your attic insulation. A 12-inch layer, evenly distributed, will keep the heat inside your home and you toasty all winter.

December
Check your air. Now that the furnace is on, if you don’t already have a carbon monoxide detector, get one. You should install one in your basement and one on the top floor.