MiltonSearch.com Home and Garden

The garden takes on a different and enchanting personality in the evening hours when we often have more time to sit, relax and entertain. You can make your garden shine at night by using different types of lighting to set a special mood.

Lighting Sources
More than ever before there is a variety of different kinds of lighting to consider for the garden.

Low voltage: Easily installed low voltage systems are probably the most popular garden lighting options for today’s do-it-yourselfers. Typically these garden lights are low to the ground and placed along paths or around the garden to highlight a featured tree or garden ornament. Low voltage systems use a transformer to drop your 120-volt house current to 12 volts, about the same amount of electricity used to run a car battery.

Line voltage: Line voltage lights use the same 120-volt electrical current as the house. These lights are “hard wired” and should be installed by professionals.

Solar: Solar lights are widely available, many housed in whimsical casings (like turtles, frogs, etc.) to double as garden art during the day time. Solar lighting uses photovoltaic cells that convert the sunlight absorbed during the daylight hours into electricity to charge a battery after dark. No wiring or external power source is needed. Most solar lights run for eight to 10 hours when they receive a full day of direct sunlight. Generally this light is diffused and doesn’t illuminate a wide area.

Torches and candles: Candles and torches provide a flickering light that creates a soothing and romantic ambiance.

Designing with Light
When planning your night time landscape lighting, of course personal preference rules. However, here are a few considerations:

- Avoid placing your lights in a straight line along pathways. Rather, stagger the lights to avoid a harsh “airport runway” look.

-
Lights that are not shielded tend to create an unpleasant glare that is hard on the eyes.

- Most plants are not bothered by night lights, but there are some that may have their growth or bloom patterns disrupted by being exposed to light during the night.

Plants for the Night Garden
Don’t overlook the use of plants to light up your garden at night. For example, though many flowers disappear as dusk approaches, white flowering plants continue to shine. Some flowers bloom only at night, and then release their fragrance into the still night air. Locate these plants near a deck or patio, or where you are most likely to be in the evening. Here are some favourites to light up your garden:

Evening Primrose opens in the evening with soft, clear white petals that gradually fade into pink as the flower matures. Their perfume is similar to honeysuckle with a hint of citrus. The flowers open every evening throughout the summer until the first frost.

Sweet-scented nicotiana has creamy tubular flowers on gracefully arching branches. The trumpet-shaped blossoms are closed during the daytime but in the late afternoon and evening they fill the air with a jasmine-like scent.

Moonflower has large, very fragrant, trumpet-shaped blooms that unfurl in slow motion each night as the sun sets. Pure white with faint green tracings, the blossoms bloom all night. By noon the next day, the flowers are closed up and barely seen among the plant’s dense foliage.

Angel’s Trumpet has 15-cm (6-inch) white trumpet-shaped flowers that open at night and remain open well into the following day.

Evening Stock is a multi-branched plants with grey-green leaves and 2.5-cm (1-inch) pale mauve, star-shaped flowers. The blooms are closed tightly all day but open at dusk with a spicy fragrance.

Four O’Clocks open in late afternoon, with 5-cm (2-inch) trumpet-shaped flowers that release a jasmine like scent. They bloom in pink, rose, white, orange and yellow and are very easy and fast growing.

– by Veronica Sliva of HGTV.ca

Disaster DIY: The six deadly sins of do-it-yourself projects you should avoid

Time
DIY’ers think they can renovate a bathroom or kitchen, build a deck or finish a basement in a weekend or in the evenings after work. They can’t. People often underestimate how long it takes to do a job properly. It takes even longer to learn how to do things right - I don’t know many people who learned to walk in a weekend!

Money
Buying the proper materials costs money. Hiring a professional costs money. There are so many variables in a renovation that it’s almost impossible to foresee all the costs. People don’t understand that for every dollar that’s saved, if it’s done wrong, it will end up costing more than double to fix it properly.

Skill
It takes lots of practice, trial and error to set straight and level tiles, create seamless joints in drywall or install trim or crown molding. But people buy a book, watch a show, put on a toolbelt - and abracadabra - they’re experts. Except they’re not.

Planning
Proper planning will result in a smooth(er) renovation. A lot of weekend warriors are the “shoot first” type. There’s only one way to plan a project: design, destroy, rebuild - in that order.

Mess
Renovation is a war - on dirt. A lot of people expect thousands of pounds of lathe and plaster to come down without creating a mess. Clean up regularly – it’s easier to see what you’re doing and it’s safer. When it comes to laying drop sheets, try taping up plastic sheets to keep dust down - an ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold.

Enjoyment
When starting a DIY project, many people have expectations that far exceed the reality of the project. When the honeymoon’s over and the DIYer realizes that the project will take more time, more money and more skill to get the job done properly – that’s when the problems begin. The job is either left unfinished or finished incorrectly because it was rushed. Doing your own home renovation project is like getting married – you’ve got to know what you’re getting into. There will be good days and there will be bad days. It’s important that once you tear down that wall, you stay committed and do the very best you can.

The only thing better than finishing cleanup duty? Not having to do it again for a while. These techniques will make your efforts last longer.

Keeping the Kitchen Clean

Cabinets
Set jars of liquid or jelly on coasters, or line shelves with nonadhesive cork liner. When drips occur, just replace the coasters or the lining.

Countertops
To repel stains on countertops, twice a year apply grout sealer (available at hardware stores) to tile, and stone sealer (also at hardware stores) to stone countertops. Follow the package instructions.

Instead of using wood cutting boards, switch to plastic. Since wood shouldn’t be sanitized in the dishwasher (wood can warp when wet), it can harbor bacteria, which gets on knives and can invade your food-prep area. Pop plastic boards into the dishwasher after every use to kill germs.

To make cleanup faster when you cook, cover countertops with sheets of wax paper, parchment paper, or butcher paper before preparing food. Juices from meats, chicken, and fish never hit the counters, so there’s no need to disinfect. When finished, crumple up the paper and toss.

Freezer and Refrigerator
Place a box of baking soda in the freezer and another in the refrigerator to absorb and neutralize smells; replace them every three months. Alternatives: a mound of charcoal; coffee beans in a bowl; or a cotton ball soaked in vanilla extract and kept in the refrigerator until dry.

Every month or so, dump ice cubes from the trays and make a new batch. Stale ice traps odors, like those from frozen fish or meat.

Sink
Grind the skins of oranges, lemons, and limes in the garbage disposal with a handful of ice cubes. The rock-hard texture of the ice cubes sharpens the blades; the citrus scent of the grated peels clears the air. Or make ice cubes of vinegar instead of water. The vinegar will deodorize the disposal.

Stovetop
Reduce grease splatters on the stovetop and the hood by putting a mesh splatter screen over pans when cooking.

Keeping the Bathroom Clean

Shower
After showering, run a squeegee down the shower doors and walls in long, vertical strokes. (No need to use any cleaner.) Soap scum, mildew, and hard-water marks are less likely to materialize on a dry surface.

Spread out the shower curtain after use. Mildew grows faster in bunched-up folds. Another idea: Turn on the fan while showering to dissipate the steam in the room. That way, mildew has less chance to grow.

At the first sign of black mildew in tile grout, soak a cotton ball in bleach and dab it on the spot. In about 30 minutes, the mold will most likely be gone. Apply a sealant (available at hardware stores) to grout twice a year, following the manufacturer’s instructions, to prevent staining. Stone vanity tops also benefit from the application of a sealant once a year.

Toilet
Pour a cup of water and a splash of bleach into a plastic or porcelain toilet-brush caddy (metal-trimmed caddies tend to rust). From then on, your disinfected brush will be at the ready to swish the bowl anytime.

Tub
Before you throw away that empty can of peanuts, save the plastic lid and set it underneath a can of shaving cream to prevent rust from forming on the rim of the tub. Or brush clear nail polish on the metal ring around the bottom of the can to ward off rust altogether.

Smooth white paste car wax (available at hardware stores) onto a cloth and rub it on the sides of a porcelain-enamel tub, but not on the nonslip surface. (If you wax the areas on which you walk, they could become dangerously slippery when wet.) Not only will it leave a shine but it will also create a protective barrier against water-and-soap buildup.

Keeping the Living Areas Clean

Artwork
Before rearranging paintings on walls, slip on white cotton gloves. Natural oils from your fingertips can seep onto artwork, damaging the color over time.

Floors
Eighty percent of dirt in the home is the dry, tracked-in kind. Set a doormat of toothed, bristly material, such as Astroturf, outside the door to leave dirt and grit where they belong — outdoors. (Muddy shoes can stay out there, too.)

Slice wine corks into disks and glue them to the bottoms of furniture and heavy pottery, or stick on adhesive felt pads. Dust settles into gouges made by furniture on floors and turns into grime, making it tougher to clean.

Furniture
Keep a dusting cloth in various handy places throughout your living spaces — on a nightstand, in a coffee-table drawer — so you can grab it to dust furniture anytime you notice an accumulation.

Opt for patterned upholstery, which conceals dirt better than solid fabric.

Wipe pets with a microfiber cloth, a dry-cleaning sponge, or a specialty pet wipe each day to reduce the amount of dander on the upholstery.

Light Fixtures
Once a week, mist a few squirts of room deodorizer on cool lightbulbs. (A note of caution: Moisture can seep into the light socket and damage the bulb, so spray from about a foot or so away.) The next time you turn the light on, the heat from the bulb will activate the scent.

Walls
Arrange furniture six inches from walls instead of flush against them so there will be fewer smudges from bumping to tend to later. You’ll also have easier access to dusty corners that need a visit from a dust mop.

Window Coverings
Open and close window treatments (blinds, curtains, shades) often to displace dust from the fabric instead of letting it sit until you get around to cleaning it. When it falls to the floor, run a dust mop over the surface.

Keeping the Laundry Room Clean

Dryer and Washing Machine
Leave the lid of the washer open for at least an hour after using the machine to let moisture evaporate and discourage the growth of mold and mildew.

When you’ve accidentally left a lipstick or a crayon in the pocket of a garment, squirt a bit of WD-40 onto a cloth, then rub it on the oil-based marks inside the washing machine. One note of caution: WD-40 is flammable, so don’t use this trick inside the dryer. Instead, use a cloth drenched with water and dishwashing liquid.

Floor
Put a rug or a carpet swatch in front of the sink to sop up splashes when you hand wash items. A highly absorbent material, like cotton chenille, is easy to care for; just toss it in the washer. A rug made from a natural fiber, such as jute or sea grass, will conceal water stains.

Consider purchasing a small water alarm, which will alert you if the washing machine leaks or overflows. It sits on the floor, and a battery-operated sensor sounds when water touches it. Basic models sell for less than $20 at home-improvement centers.

Shelving
Stack liquid detergents, stain-removal solutions, and anything else that can leak in plastic bins or caddies to contain drips. Because these liquids are highly concentrated, drips can deteriorate the paint on shelves and the finishes on appliances.

Hiring a contractor is one of the most difficult and nerve-wracking things a homeowner ever has to do. Seeking out the right person to do a great job for a fair price can feel like an endless search as you wade through over-priced quotes. Trust your instincts, and keep this list of troubling phrases in mind when you’re looking for your next contractor.

Phrases that mean trouble
“We happened to be in your neighbourhood.” Be wary of anyone who comes knocking at your door looking for work. Driveway paving and roofing companies may solicit business this way, but make sure you check the company out thoroughly before agreeing to have any work done. Never hire anyone who says the offer is only good if you sign up right now, or who can’t provide references. Homeowners and reputable contractors agree: the best way to hire someone is by word of mouth.

“We require payment in full before we start work.” Any pressure tactics to make the full payment or a larger than normal deposit before work begins should set off alarms, even if the contractor claims they need the money to buy materials. A reputable contractor won’t need to pay for materials in advance because he’ll have an account with his regular suppliers. The Canadian Home Builders’ Association (CHBA) recommends a prepayment of 10 to 15 percent of the total price.

“We can offer a special deal if you pay cash and we skip the paperwork.” While it can be tempting to save money on your renovation by paying cash, always get an agreement in writing. The contract protects you from certain liabilities, and proves what you and the contractor have agreed to in terms of the scope of the work, the work schedule, warranty, and the price and payment schedule. You should also steer clear of any contractor who can’t justify why his quote is much higher or much lower than the others. A very low price may leave you liable for accidents, injuries or damages caused on the job.

“Custom made, custom size.” While sometimes you will do a custom job — to create the kitchen of your dreams or a built-in cabinet in an oddly shaped nook—the word “custom” usually means dollar signs.

Sins of omission
Lies about business record and insurance. Before you meet them, check your potential contractors out with the Better Business Bureau and your local Home Builders’ Association to see if anyone has lodged a complaint against them. If they aren’t registered with at least one of these, cancel the meeting. During the meeting, be sure to ask about their record, as well as proof of Worker’s Compensation coverage and Contractor Liability insurance.

Not asking any questions at all. A good contractor should listen to what you want, but also tell you what you need and ask about things you may not have considered. He should bring to the table expertise about how best to do the job, where you might be able to cost-share, and what you need in terms of permits or permission from the neighbours.

Not mentioning the cooling off period. Even after the contract has been signed and the deposit paid, there is a “cooling off” period (normally 10 days) during which you can cancel the contract and get your deposit back. A professional contractor should mention your right to cancel.

Actions speak louder than words. Your prospective contractor may be a fly-by-night operation if the quote he gives you is printed on plain paper instead of letterhead, if it doesn’t have an itemized breakdown of all costs involved in the project, or if he hasn’t bothered to spend the nominal fee to put the company name on his truck.

When looking for a contractor, keep your radar on and your ears open for anything that just doesn’t sound right. Be a smart, informed consumer and never let your lack of knowledge of the industry deter you from investigating further or asking questions. A contractor might suggest you cut corners or try a temporary solution, but in the end, you’ll be the one left footing the bill to get the job (finally) done right.

A neutral coat of paint throughout your house can give you the most bang for your buck

Can’t stand your scary, cobwebby basement one more minute? Is it past time to replace the pink-and-aqua tiles and porcelain in the master bath? Maybe you’re sick of the curling, chipped vinyl floor, the tacky cabinets, and cramped layout of your kitchen. Perhaps you’re trying to convince your partner that the siding is sad and stucco would be stupendous. But your partner wants to build a deck…

What are the best home improvement projects to undertake? It depends on your goals and plans. If you’re trying to sell your property soon for the highest possible price, your priorities are likely somewhat different than if you’re planning to stay for a few years and want to improve your family’s quality of life.

If you’re selling, focus on the renovations a buyer would be most likely to undertake, not those you’re most itching to do. You might dream of putting French doors and a Juliet balcony in the master bedroom, but if your kitchen is twenty-five years old—or even fifteen—you’re better off directing your home improvement dollars there. Buyers generally focus on kitchen and bathroom quality, along with overall living and storage space. Kitchen and bathroom remodelling projects are among the most disruptive undertakings, so buyers especially appreciate upgraded fixtures, appliances and décor in these rooms.

Here are ten worthwhile home improvement projects and the percentage of cost typically recouped at resale (in a seller’s market):

1. Painting
If you’re only going to do one thing, paint. Interior/exterior painting is one of the very few improvements on which you are likely to realize a profit—as long as you choose tasteful, current, neutral colours and the work is very professional. Payback: As much as 300%

2. Kitchen remodelling
Typically one of the most expensive improvement projects, and you can quickly run up a huge bill. Careful planning and shopping will help minimize costs here. When remodelling the kitchen, remember to keep the project in line with the style and quality of the rest of the house and neighbourhood. Just as there’s no point in putting a pricey granite countertop on dated-looking 1970s cabinets, there’s no point in installing a $50,000 kitchen in a $200,000 house. Payback: 68-120%.

3. Bathroom addition
If your home has only one bathroom and is meant to house more than two people, a bathroom addition should be one of your top priorities. If most homes in your neighbourhood have two, three or more bathrooms, and yours has just one or one-and-a-half, you will definitely increase your property value by adding a bath. Payback: 80-130%.

4. Bathroom remodelling
Upgrading a pokey bathroom will enhance the value of your home and add to your daily comfort and enjoyment. White porcelain is the safe, timeless choice here. Payback: 65-120%.

5. Finishing unfinished space
Whether it’s an attic or a basement, by finishing these spaces you add significant value to your home, increasing square footage without having to build. Payback: 50-90%.

6. Window/door replacement
If your windows or doors are wasting energy or simply decrepit-looking, replacements can be an excellent use of your home improvement dollars. Stick to standard styles; odd shapes and highly customized arrangements do little for resale value. Payback: 50-90%.

7. Deck addition/improvement/expansion
Decks are one of the few exterior improvements with any significant return, apart from painting. Payback: 65-90%.

8. Additions of bedrooms, family rooms, sunrooms, conservatories, garages, etc.
Increasing square footage is almost always an excellent use of remodelling dollars, but don’t expand your home so much that there’s little outdoor space left. Payback: 50-83%.

9. Home office remodelling
This project is becoming increasingly popular. Be sure to plan for plenty of electrical and cable outlets to accommodate all the required machines and gadgets. Payback: 60-73%.

10. Energy efficiency retrofits
If your primary concern is return on investment, proceed with caution. Some retrofits, like better insulation and high-efficiency furnaces, pay for themselves relatively quickly. Others, like solar panels, heat recovery ventilators, and tankless water heaters, may take years to pay for themselves. Payback: Highly variable.

Two projects that are unlikely to pay off at resale: swimming pools (which may even adversely affect your property value) and excessive landscaping (buyers may admire it but few will pay extra tens of thousands even if that’s what you spent to improve the grounds). And remember that badly done remodelling/renovation projects will cost you in two ways. You won’t pay just for labour and materials; you’ll pay when buyers see a project that has to be redone.

From licences and terms to contracts and reference checks, hiring a contractor for your home gets a little easier with these great tips from Mike Holmes

Licences and Insurance
Each contractor who comes onto your property should have a valid licence. Make sure you ask to see it and inspect it closely. Licences are offered by the government and expire yearly, so make sure you check to see if their licence is valid. The government supplies permits for renovation, electrical, plumbing, heating and cooling. The licence doesn’t insure quality but it is the first step in investigating your contractor. It is also your right as a home owner to demand that your contractor carry valid insurance which covers you in case of any accidents on the job site (i.e. someone dropping an expensive vase or scratching an original oil painting). If a contractor doesn’t have valid insurance, they can attain temporary insurance to cover the work on your property. Some contractors may threaten to not do work on your property if you demand insurance but do you want someone like that working on your property?

References
If your contractor is a good one, they will have a list of references detailing at least 10 different clients with up-to-date contact information including: name, address, phone number(s), and info on the work done including quote. Once the contractor has supplied such a list, call a number of them. Ask the home owners important questions like: Did the contractor start/finish on time? How much down did they ask for? Did you have any problems on the job? Was the contractor pleasant to work with? Did they surprise you with extra prices you did not expect? Furthermore, try to go see at least three other properties which have had similar work done. This is important as you don’t want a fence expert doing a stucco job on your $30,000 addition.

Contracts
Before you agree to have the contractor do work on your property, it is the contractor’s responsibility to provide a contract containing all their contact information and detailing the work which will be completed on your property, supplies they will be using, sub contractors (if any) who will be coming onto the property and a detailed payment schedule. It should also be stated in the contract that you will not pay any costs above the quote unless agreed to in writing.

Terms
It isn’t a bad idea to put some terms on your contract, i.e. times the property is open to them and that the contractor agrees to clean up at the end of each work day. Some contractors ask for an outrageous amount of money before they even lay a hand on your property. Our first episode “Whole House Disaster” tells the story of Dave and Anna who were taken for over $100,000 when they hired a contractor to renovate their entire house. The contractor asked for $20,000 upon singing and $20,000 the first day of work. That’s $40,000 (or 40%) up front.

A good landmark to use depending on the size of your job, is an average “good faith” down payment of $2,500 which is basically booking a contractor’s time. When they arrive at the job site with their tools ready to work, you can give them another 10%. Never agree to a payment schedule based on time. Agree to a payment schedule based on work completed. For instance, if someone is renovating a spare room in your home, agree to pay just 10% on their first day or work, 25% when electrical is completed, 25% when insulation, vapor barrier and dry wall is installed, and 25% when priming and painting is completed. It is your right to hold back 15% for up to one month after completion. This gives you time to make sure nothing falls apart within 30 days of the job being completed. Never give the balance of the quote due before the contractor has finished all of their work. Make sure you never pay in cash. Always pay by cheque or certified cheque. It is important to keep a paper trail in case you ever have to go to court. It is always important to get a receipt for every payment you pay the contractor, signed and dated by the contractor.

Caution
Most importantly—BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU SIGN. A good contract should be typed, legible and easy to read. There should be no fine print. And remember—always trust your first instincts as they are usually correct.

Next week, Mike will discuss Contractor Red Flags.

It’s getting into the Fall season and every homeowner knows what this means in the months ahead: heating system check up, caulking, weatherproofing, etc. The following checklist touches on a few of the most obvious areas that should be checked before winter sets in.

Check all window and door locks for proper operation.

Windows that can be opened by breaking the glass and unlocking them, are less effective deterrents to criminals. Check with the hardware store for window lock alternatives. All exterior doors should have deadbolt locks.

Check your home for water leaks.

First of all, know where the main water shut off valve is located in your home and check it frequently to make sure it is operational. Then, check the following areas:

Outside Your Home
Leaking roofs, poor drainage, and clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to significant water damage inside your home.

General Tips
• Disconnect garden hoses from all spigots before the start of winter.
• Fill in any low spots around the house so water drains away from the foundation.
• Inspect caulking around windows and doors and replace as needed where cracked or deteriorated.
• Repaint wood siding as needed.

Roof
• Keep roof, valleys, gutters and downspouts free from buildup of leaves, twigs and other litter preventing proper drainage.
• Proper roof and eave ventilation may help extend the life of the roof by reducing the buildup of heat and moisture in the attic.
• Preservatives available for some types of roofs may help limit weathering effects of moisture and retard growth of molds and mosses.
• Avoid walking on a roof to limit wear and tear. Only necessary repairs or inspections should warrant walking on the roof.
• Keep trees trimmed to prevent them from rubbing against the roof or from providing excessive shade.
• Watch for these warning signs:
• Missing, curling, cupping, broken or cracked shingles.
• Damage or deterioration around the flashing at chimneys, vents and other junctions.
• Damage or deterioration in valley areas of the roof.
• Water stains on your ceiling. If possible, check your attic around flues, plumbing vents, and chimneys.
• Pooling or ponds of water that fail to drain from flat or low sloped roofs may indicate low areas and inadequate drainage.

Gutters/Downspouts
• Clean debris from your gutters and inspect them regularly.
• Consider purchasing gutter shields if your gutters frequently fill with debris.
• Downspouts should extend several feet away from the house to carry water away from the foundation.

Make sure there are working nightlights at the top and bottom of all stairs.
Other safety ideas for stairs:
• Tile and painted wood or concrete stairs can be slippery when wet or when a person’s shoes are wet. Resurface the treads with slip-resistant strips near the stair nosing.
• All stairs of at least three risers should have a handrail.
• Do not store items on the stairs.

Have a heating professional check your heating system every year.
Woodburning stove connector pipes and chimneys should be inspected by a certified chimney sweep at least annually.

Protect your home from frozen pipes.
Many families have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter, all because of water pipes that freeze and burst.
And recovering from frozen pipes is not as simple as calling a plumber. A three millimetre crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons (946 liters) of water a day. Both plastic (PVC) and copper pipes can burst.

By taking a few simple precautions, you can save yourself the mess, money and aggravation frozen pipes cause.

Before the cold hits
• Insulate pipes in your home’s crawl spaces and attic. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember - the more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.
• Heat tape or thermostatically-controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers’ installation and operation instructions.
• Seal leaks that allow cold air inside near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents and pipes. Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With severe cold, even a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
• Disconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.

Replace your furnace filter.
Furnace filters need to be replaced frequently to allow your heating and cooling systems to operate properly.

Run all gas-powered lawn equipment until the fuel tank is empty.
By doing this, you are removing flammable liquid storage from your garage. At the same time, make sure you aren’t storing dirty, oily rags in a pile. They can ignite spontaneously.

Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the flues and check your fireplace damper.
Soot and creosote, which build up inside the chimney, can ignite when a fire is lit in the fireplace.

Remove bird nests from chimney flues and outdoor electrical fixtures.
Bird nests on top of light fixtures are a fire hazard. Bird nests in chimney flues can prevent a proper venting of combustion gases and can catch fire from sparks. You should exercise great caution when working on your roof or consider hiring a qualified professional to take care of any work that needs to be done.

Inspect and clean dust from the covers of your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
Remember, only WORKING smoke alarms save lives.

Make sure the caulking around doors and windows is adequate to reduce heat/cooling loss.
Check glazing for loose or missing putty or glazing compound. This will also help reduce water damage to the windows and door frames.

Make sure that the caulking around your bathroom fixtures is adequate to prevent water from seeping into the sub-flooring.
Check for cracked or missing caulk around the base of your toilet, bath tub, and bathroom cabinets. Properly sealing gaps between your bathroom fixtures and flooring material can prevent damage.

Insulation
A well-insulated house literally can provide hundreds of dollars of energy savings throughout the year by keeping you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
Look:
• In your attic — is it secure, insulation side down, within the studs
• In the walls (if not you may need to have it blown in)
• The unfinished basement or crawl space (you may need to staple it to rafters).
• Attached garage, primarily against any exterior wall or roof
• Underneath a room that does not sit on a concrete foundation

Once you’ve done these few maintenance chores, they should become second-hand next season, and, consequently, easier and easier to finish. Preparing your home for winter in the fall can make life so much easier for you in the cold, dark winter weeks ahead. And you’ll rest easier knowing that you won’t have to fight the elements when the inevitable emergency or problem crops up, as it always does. You can sit back in front of your fireplace with your family and enjoy those cold months secure in your well-protected home!