Archive for the ‘Food & Dining’ Category

School lunches about more than food

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

sandwich

One day your kids might devour the healthy sandwich or salad, or wrap in their lunch. The next, it can all change.

Don’t forget image, peer pressure, the fickleness of youth

Egg salad and tuna will get you dissed in the lunchroom. Every kid knows that. Bagel and cream cheese? B-o-oring. And what teenaged male sporting baggy pants and earbuds wants to be caught dead sucking the straw on a juicebox, even if it is 100 per cent pure?

It’s September and the mind-numbing, thankless chore of school lunches has resumed. As dread-inducing as nightly homework dramas. A battle of wills. A test of creativity. And so petty in the scheme of life’s problems, it is to laugh. Yet a mere two weeks into the school year, aren’t you already grinding your molars?

Sadly, after 12 years of shopping, packing, planning and cajoling kids into making their own damn lunches, I have little wisdom to offer. Except this: there are no secret recipes. No foolproof meals. No guarantees that just because a child is rapturous about a prosciutto, goat cheese and red pepper wrap one day means doesn’t mean he won’t toss it into the compost the next. Or that what he gobbles during summer, at the dinner table or anywhere else on the planet will hold any interest once packed in the lunch bag.

Nowhere is the current school lunch angst more clear than in the daily newspapers and parenting magazines. As surely as the leaves change colour, autumn brings a deluge of clever tips from the experts on how to ensure our offspring will chow down on tasty, nutritious lunch fare that will help their brains retain the finer points of algebra and ward off the scourge of obesity that’s sweeping the nation.

These tend to range between the obvious (instead of just using bread, switch it up with buns! Or pita! Freeze juice boxes to keep the lunch cold) to the utterly unrealistic. (Homemade sticky toffee pudding was recently featured in one newspaper. And as one online reader responded, “Are you serious? I’ll make that right after I finish dinner, do the dishes, help the kids with their homework, give them a bath and read them bedtime stories.”)

Among my personal favourite lunchtime hints are: “stock the fridge with food they’ll eat” and “don’t give your kids food they don’t like.” Not because it sounds obvious. But because when it comes to lunches, every parent knows that kids’ tastes are best described as Subject to Change Without Notice.

We’ve all been there. Five straight weeks of insisting on turkey and lettuce and then they refuse to ever touch it again. Or one of the cool kids brings Lunchables and suddenly plain old rice crackers, cheese and apple slices doesn’t cut it.

Some years ago, after someone in my household uttered the phrase “cheese strings,” I rushed out and bought a mega-pack of low-fat mozzarella ones. Brilliant invention! They love cheese! Two days later, the cheese strings had fallen out of favour. Ditto for those yogurt tube thingys, which joined the ranks of overpriced edibles you can’t bear to throw out and end up consuming late at night in front of CSI reruns.

The truth is there’s a lot more to school lunches than the food. Image, for example. Peer pressure. The fickleness of youth. And all the other things they would rather be doing than eating.

A word of advice for those of you with wee ones pleading for Lizzie McGuire lunch satchels or SpongeBob thermoses: enjoy it while you can. Because one day, you will find your teenager furtively unpacking ham and cheese on rye from plastic tubs, wrapping everything in foil and stuffing it into a plastic bag, years of eco-conscious training be damned. Apparently, lunch bags are lame when you are of a certain age. And Tupperware takes up too much room when you are lugging a 45-pound knapsack plus a saxophone on your bike.

Dipping is a big trend this year. Fruit dunked in yogurt, veggies with dip. That’s grand if you have a child who will actually be bothered to open all the containers and lift the baby carrots one by one over to the mound of hummus. Not mine. They’d rather cram something in, wipe their mouths on their shirts and get out to the soccer field ASAP.

Pasta salad is another frequent suggestion that makes enormous sense. But never underestimate the reasons your kids can come up with to nix a sensible meal. Not long ago while watching one of mine polish off a plate of tabouli, I suggested the leftovers might be ideal for lunch the next day.

“No thanks,” he said. “It’s too unmanageable.” As in, it requires a utensil. Whatever.

The only way not to go completely mad is to take one’s cues from Naked Chef Jamie Oliver. The celebrity chef has been leading a campaign to improve the quality of school lunches in Britain, dumping chicken nuggets and fries for healthier low-fat alternatives such as lentil burgers and mushroom tagliatelle. The result? Two years into the program, 424,000 students have opted out of school meal plans.

Oliver isn’t giving up, though. Over the next five years, he says, “we’ll see that negative turn to a positive.”

I’m adopting the same approach. Besides, in five years my youngest will graduate.

What’s for lunch? Here are some unique suggestions:

Use cookie cutters to make sandwiches into different shapes. Or a zigzag garnishing knife for vegetables. It’s all in the presentation, as long as the eaters aren’t over age 10.

Make kebabs of cheese chunks, cherry tomatoes, meat and cucumber slices. Or for dessert, use chunks of melon, pineapple and grapes.

A tub of cereal and a container of milk, maybe with some berries to sprinkle on top, might do. Of course, just because they eat it morning, after school and before bed doesn’t mean they’ll go for it at midday. But why not try? It’s healthy.

Pack fresh apple slices in a thermos of lemonade, which theoretically keeps the apples from turning brown. Untested, but interesting.

Pack fruit chunks instead of whole fruit, with a toothpick for eating and maybe some fruit-flavoured yogurt for dipping.

Invest in a sectioned lunch kit, with lots of compartments and only one lid to open for the finicky child.

Written by Andrea Gordon of the Toronto Star

Hot dogs vs. ‘haute dogs’

Saturday, September 15th, 2007

At Buddha Dog on Roncesvalles Ave., co-owner Andrew Hunter displays some of his little dogs with toppings such as brie, basil pesto, red pepper jelly and pepper jack cheese.

At Buddha Dog on Roncesvalles Ave., co-owner Andrew Hunter displays some of his little dogs with toppings such as brie, basil pesto, red pepper jelly and pepper jack cheese.

Do you like your dog straight from the street or handcrafted in Ontario and served in a restaurant?

There’s a new dog in town, a haute dog that’s puny but ethical.

Impressive to some, a travesty to others, this dog is at the very least a springboard to reconsider the much-maligned hot dog.

It’s the creation of Buddha Dog, a Prince Edward County shop that has expanded to Roncesvalles Ave. At roughly 10 centimetres (4 inches) long and weighing about 30 grams (1 ounce), this dense dog is more pepperoni stick than hot dog. (And you could fit three of them inside a standard street dog.)

It’s made by butcher Ted Aman of Aman’s Abbatoir in Wellington for Buddha Dog. He takes Prince Edward County beef, ages it three weeks, grinds it (but not as finely as bologna-like hot dogs), adds spices plus the legal minimum of preservatives, packs it into a beef collagen casing without filler, hand-rolls everything into links, then smokes, chills and freezes the end result.

Buddha Dog thaws the dogs, trims their unsightly link ends, warms them on a panini grill and tucks them into lightly grilled, 10-centimetre-long white buns made by Picton baker Peter Grendel at Pastry House. Optional: a thin strip of cheese (one of three types from Black River Cheese Co. in Milford, plus Quebec brie on Fridays) and a squirt of homemade sauce. County chefs created 11 regular sauces and one rotating “dog of the day” options. Toronto sauces are planned.

A dog with cheese and sauce costs $2.50. Most customers, apparently, order two. Co-owners Andrew Hunter and Andrew Mackenzie sometimes call their concoctions appetizer dogs, dessert dogs and even tapas dogs.

“We made this dog for certain reasons,” concedes Hunter, “and one is to get used to eating a smaller amount of food. Portion sizes are completely out of whack.”

Yet concern over what and how much we’re eating is mounting.

Americans spent $3.9 billion (U.S.) on hot dogs and sausages last year, according to the National Hot Dog & Sausage Council. (Canadians don’t seem to keep these stats.) But the dogs nabbing headlines are the health-conscious/ethical/modern ones, like the salmon franks at Franktitude in Miami, the reindeer sausages at Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs street cart in Denver, and the grass-fed, hormone-free beef dogs made for Sparky’s All-American Food in Brooklyn.

The New York Times devoted a Dining In section cover to politically correct frankfurters last year.

Canada, sad to say, has been slow to follow suit, although there are some organic and vegetarian options in stores, and many swear by kosher dogs (Hebrew National, if you can find them).

I recently got a kick out of caribou and bison sausages from a Whitehorse street vending cart called Mark & Paddy’s Funky Fine Foods.

And the deli counter frankfurters/sausages (eight kinds) at Big Franks in Downsview are surprisingly good (try spicy turkey or veal).

But Frankz – which steamed, barbecued and grilled custom-made dogs – failed near the Eaton Centre. So, apparently, did So Sage in Mississauga, with custom sausages. Maybe because customers complained the  27-centimetre, 225- gram, $6.49 sausages were too big and too pricey?

Ikea’s 50-cent hot dogs are a guilty pleasure, and 7-Eleven’s hot dogs are inexplicably popular.

Big news this summer is that Ontario amended regulations so street food can expand beyond hot dogs. Toronto city council is working on applying the changes here, and we might see healthy, affordable, safe, local and diverse street food next spring. Lost in the hoopla, though, is the fact that hot dogs aren’t being outlawed – they’re too popular.

Just ask Marianne Moroney, who has been vending dogs outside Mount Sinai Hospital since 1995.

“In comparison to what’s inside the hospital, families really appreciate spending $3.50 for a hot dog and a drink,” she says. “Personally, I’d love to have free-range meats and less fatty hot dogs, but my customers have told me they won’t pay the price.”

Still, like many vendors now, Moroney offers veggie and chicken dogs alonside beef ones (all $2.50), plus halal beef or turkey sausages on top of conventional Polish, Italian and German versions ($3.50).

Moroney got into vending 12 years ago as a jewellery maker, but soon switched to the tough but lucrative business of selling street dogs.

“I never said I want to grow up and be a hot dog vendor, but I love it now – I love this business.”

And it loves her.

One customer made a documentary about Moroney (details below). Eight more passed on their numbers to vouch for her when they discovered she was being interviewed for this story.

Paul Anthony, a director with the Ministry of Education, frequents Moroney’s stand because it’s “a really, really clean place.” Plus he enjoys the 20-minute walk at lunch.

“Everybody gets bent out of the shape about hot dogs, but I don’t see it as any different than a sandwich with prepared meats from a deli,” says Anthony.

“I think it’s a great little part of our street life during the work days.”

By Jennifer Bain of the Toronto Star

The classic hot dog

Hot Dog Etiquette:

Although the lazy days of summer are winding down, there’s still plenty of time to squeeze in a few more backyard BBQs. Before you take another bite, read up on this advice from the National Hot dog council, and prevent your hot dog etiquette from going up in smoke.

Don’t…
Put hot dog toppings between the hot dog and the bun

Always ‘dress the dog’, not the bun. Apply condiments in the following order: wet condiments like mustard and chili first, followed by chunky condiments like relish, onions and sauerkraut, finishing up with shredded cheese and spices like celery salt or pepper.

Do…
Serve sesame seed, poppy seed and plain buns with hot dogs

Sun-dried tomato buns or basil buns are considered gauche with franks.

Don’t…
Use a cloth napkin to wipe your mouth when eating a hot dog

Paper is always preferable.

Do…
Eat hot dogs on buns with your hands

Utensils should not touch hot dogs or buns.

Don’t…
Take more than five bites to finish a hot dog

For foot-long wieners, seven bites are acceptable.

Do…
Use paper plates to serve hot dogs

Every day dishes are acceptable; china is a no-no.

Don’t…
Leave bits of bun on your plate

Eat it all.

Don’t…
Use fresh herbs on the same plate with hot dogs

It wrecks the presentation.

Don’t…
Use ketchup on your hot dog after the age of 18

Mustard, relish, onions, cheese and chili are acceptable.

Do…
Lick remaining condiments off fingers

Never wash.

Don’t…
Send a thank you note following a hot dog barbecue

It would not be in keeping with the unpretentious nature of hot dogs.